Cook this: Tabakh maaz — fried ribs — from On the Himalayan Trail

‘A Kashmiri delicacy, these crispy, delicate ribs are enjoyed at weddings, banquets and celebrations,’ says Romy Gill

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To try another recipe from the book, check out: Momos (dumplings).

This Kashmiri specialty is one of chef Romy Gill’s favourite dishes. “Oh, gosh. It is so good,” she says. “And it’s such an easy recipe to make.”

During her travels in Kashmir, Gill learned how to make tabakh maaz from a team of wazas — chefs who specialize in wazwan, a feast served at special occasions, such as funerals and weddings, as well as at some restaurants.

The intricate banquet consists of as many as 36 meat (mutton or beef), chicken, fruit and vegetable dishes. “It’s such an elaborate meal that a number of the dishes are often cooked overnight, supervised by a vasta waza (head chef),” Gill explains.

Braised and then browned in ghee, these ribs are often enjoyed on their own, but they’re also an important part of a wazwan.

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The banquet is shared among groups of four seated on a sheet (dastarkhwan) on the floor; the meal is served on trami (large metal trays).

“You have a layer of rice. You have a layer of gushtaba (meatballs in yogurt gravy). Then you have rista, which are meatballs. Then you have different other meats, and people share that,” says Gill. “Then they’ll have kababs. And then on the side, they will have the tabakh maaz.”

Though she’s made tabakh maaz many times since she returned to England after her travels, Gill still remembers the texture of the ribs in Kashmir. “They’re so crispy, they’re crunchy,” she says. “And you have to have a little bit of fat in it. When you deep fry it with all the spices, it’s so delicious.”

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Serve the ribs with chutneys, relishes or pickles of your choice, she suggests, and a salad for a meal. “The wazwan has so many dishes,” says Gill. “I had to include (this) dish because I think people will be able to make it easily.”

TABAKH MAAZ

Fried Ribs

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) ribs (goat or lamb), chopped into rectangular pieces
1 L (4 cups) water
20 g (3/4 oz) garlic, crushed to a paste
5 whole cloves
4 black cardamom pods
5 cm (2 in) cinnamon stick
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp salt
5 tsp ghee

Step 1

Put the rib pieces into a deep saucepan along with the water, garlic paste, cloves, cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, ginger, turmeric and salt, and mix well. Cook until tender and the meat is starting to come away from the bone, about 45 minutes. Once cooked, remove the ribs from the spicy water and discard the water.

Step 2

Heat a separate pan over a high heat and add the cooked ribs, then pour the ghee over the meat. Fry for 10–12 minutes, until crispy and brown, turning them occasionally.

Step 3

Serve hot.

Serves: 4–5

Recipe and image reprinted from On the Himalayan Trail: Recipes and Stories from Kashmir to Ladakh by Romy Gill with permission by Hardie Grant, 2022.

‘A Kashmiri delicacy, these crispy, delicate ribs are enjoyed at weddings, banquets and celebrations,’ says Romy Gill

Reviews and recommendations are unbiased and products are independently selected. Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page.

Article content

To try another recipe from the book, check out: Momos (dumplings).

This Kashmiri specialty is one of chef Romy Gill’s favourite dishes. “Oh, gosh. It is so good,” she says. “And it’s such an easy recipe to make.”

During her travels in Kashmir, Gill learned how to make tabakh maaz from a team of wazas — chefs who specialize in wazwan, a feast served at special occasions, such as funerals and weddings, as well as at some restaurants.

The intricate banquet consists of as many as 36 meat (mutton or beef), chicken, fruit and vegetable dishes. “It’s such an elaborate meal that a number of the dishes are often cooked overnight, supervised by a vasta waza (head chef),” Gill explains.

Braised and then browned in ghee, these ribs are often enjoyed on their own, but they’re also an important part of a wazwan.

Article content

The banquet is shared among groups of four seated on a sheet (dastarkhwan) on the floor; the meal is served on trami (large metal trays).

“You have a layer of rice. You have a layer of gushtaba (meatballs in yogurt gravy). Then you have rista, which are meatballs. Then you have different other meats, and people share that,” says Gill. “Then they’ll have kababs. And then on the side, they will have the tabakh maaz.”

Though she’s made tabakh maaz many times since she returned to England after her travels, Gill still remembers the texture of the ribs in Kashmir. “They’re so crispy, they’re crunchy,” she says. “And you have to have a little bit of fat in it. When you deep fry it with all the spices, it’s so delicious.”

Article content

Serve the ribs with chutneys, relishes or pickles of your choice, she suggests, and a salad for a meal. “The wazwan has so many dishes,” says Gill. “I had to include (this) dish because I think people will be able to make it easily.”

TABAKH MAAZ

Fried Ribs

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) ribs (goat or lamb), chopped into rectangular pieces
1 L (4 cups) water
20 g (3/4 oz) garlic, crushed to a paste
5 whole cloves
4 black cardamom pods
5 cm (2 in) cinnamon stick
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp salt
5 tsp ghee

Step 1

Put the rib pieces into a deep saucepan along with the water, garlic paste, cloves, cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, ginger, turmeric and salt, and mix well. Cook until tender and the meat is starting to come away from the bone, about 45 minutes. Once cooked, remove the ribs from the spicy water and discard the water.

Step 2

Heat a separate pan over a high heat and add the cooked ribs, then pour the ghee over the meat. Fry for 10–12 minutes, until crispy and brown, turning them occasionally.

Step 3

Serve hot.

Serves: 4–5

Recipe and image reprinted from On the Himalayan Trail: Recipes and Stories from Kashmir to Ladakh by Romy Gill with permission by Hardie Grant, 2022.