Cook This: Three recipes from The Indonesian Table

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Our cookbook of the week is The Indonesian Table by Petty Pandean-Elliott. Read an interview with the author.

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Jump to the recipes: crudité, tempeh and tofu with shrimp paste sambal; pork satay with chili, ginger and lime; and sour fish soup.

The first recipe Indonesian-born, U.K.-based chef and food writer Petty Pandean-Elliott shared with us isn’t one she grew up eating in Manado, North Sulawesi. But she appreciates its freshness all the same. “I just liked the idea (of having) raw food. People think ‘Oh, in Indonesia, you fry everything or make satay or fried rice.’ But in some communities, specifically people in West Java, they just love raw food and dip it in sambal.”

Pandean-Elliott’s crudité, tempeh and tofu with shrimp paste sambal (lalapan, tempe, tahu dan sambal) was inspired by a classic Sundanese dish, made in Indigenous communities in agriculturally rich West Java. For the crudités, she chose vegetables that are readily available at her local farmers’ market, and you should feel free to do the same. Serve it with rice, and chicken or fish, she recommends, “for a healthy and balanced meal.”

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Satay may be Indonesia’s best-known dish, but similar to lalapan, skewered meats were not part of Pandean-Elliott’s mealtimes in Manado. She first tasted chicken satay with peanut sauce as a teenager, when she and her family relocated to Jakarta. The Indonesian capital is on the island of Java, “home to satay.”

In Java, vendors commonly offer beef, chicken, goat, pork, seafood and tempeh satays. Since her hometown of Manado lacked their own take on the skewers, she came up with a version based on a popular dry-braised dish. The result is the following recipe for pork satay with chili, ginger and lime.

The pork is seasoned with rica-rica, which is a Manadonese sambal, fiery with chilies and red ginger. “Traditionally, it’s so spicy. It’s really very spicy. People can add more (heat), but my recipe is elegant-spicy, maybe medium rather than super-hot.”

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Pandean-Elliott calls for only two to three chilies here, but if you like it hot, add as many as 20. She also recommends seasoning prawns, chicken or fish with rica-rica for more variations on her Manadonese-flavoured satay.

The third recipe, sour fish soup, is close to Pandean-Elliott’s heart. “It was really my grandmother’s favourite.” Her grandmother, Oma, opted for mackerel and would add a few tablespoons of steamed rice. Pandean-Elliott calls for any firm white fish, such as halibut, and offers a prawn variation.

“It’s so simple to make, really, honestly. It’s just very minimalist ingredients,” she says. After simmering the aromatics in a pot of water, you’re left with a clear, fragrant broth. “It’s very pure.”

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CRUDITÉ, TEMPEH AND TOFU WITH SHRIMP PASTE SAMBAL

Lalapan, Tempe, Tahu dan Sambal Terasi

Origin: Java
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes

For the crudité:
2 carrots, halved lengthwise
1 small cucumber, cut into 10-cm (4-inch) sticks
1 baby gem lettuce, halved lengthwise
1 red chicory (endive), leaves separated, rinsed and dried
100 g (2/3 cup) vine-ripened cherry tomatoes
50 g (1/2 cup) radishes, halved
Small bunch of basil (optional)
1 quantity Tomato and Shrimp Paste Sambal (recipe follows), to serve

For the tempeh and tofu:
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 banana shallot, finely grated
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp salt
200 g (7 oz) tempeh, cut into chunky pieces
200 g (7 oz) firm tofu, cut into triangles
400 mL (1 2/3 cups) sunflower oil

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Step 1

For the crudité, arrange the vegetables and bunch of basil, if using, on a platter and refrigerate until needed.

Step 2

For the tempeh and tofu marinade, combine the garlic, shallot, coriander and salt in a small bowl. Add 200 mL (generous 3/4 cup) of water and mix well. Add the tempeh and tofu and set aside for 5 minutes to marinate.

Step 3

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Carefully add the marinated tofu and tempeh and deep-fry for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tofu and tempeh to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.

Step 4

Remove the platter of vegetables from the refrigerator. Place the tempeh and tofu onto the platter and serve with a small bowl of sambal. Enjoy!

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Serves: 4-6

TOMATO AND SHRIMP PASTE SAMBAL

Sambal Terasi Tomat

4 tbsp coconut oil or sunflower oil
2 banana shallots, coarsely chopped
2 large cloves garlic, roughly sliced
4-5 red bird’s eye chilies, coarsely chopped
2 large red chilies, finely chopped
1-2 tsp shrimp paste
2 tomatoes, chopped into 1-cm (1/2-inch) cubes (about 1 cup)
1/4-1/2 tsp salt
1-2 tbsp lime juice

Step 1

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chilies and sauté for another 2-3 minutes. Add the shrimp paste and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes until reduced by a quarter. Put the mixture into a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer the sambal into a bowl. Season with salt and lime juice.

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Step 2

This sambal can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, topped with oil, for 2-3 days.

Makes: 500 g (2 cups)

PORK SATAY WITH CHILI, GINGER AND LIME

Sate Babi Rica-Rica

Origin: Sulawesi
Preparation time: 10 minutes, plus 10 minutes marinating time
Cooking time: 15-20 minutes

For the rica-rica:
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 banana shallots, coarsely chopped
2-3 red bird’s eye chilies
2 large red chilies
20 g (3/4 oz) ginger, thinly sliced
2 tbsp coconut oil or sunflower oil
Juice of 1 lime
Salt, to taste

For the satay:
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) pork tenderloin, cut into 2-cm (3/4-inch) cubes
1/2 tsp salt
Juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp coconut oil

To serve:
Steamed rice
Spiced Vegetable Stew (recipe is in the book)

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Step 1

Soak 14 long bamboo skewers in water for 1 hour.

Step 2

To make the rica-rica, combine all the ingredients, except the oil, lime and salt, in a blender and blend to a fine paste. Set aside.

Step 3

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the paste and sauté for 6-7 minutes. Season with lime juice and salt and sauté for another 2 minutes. Set aside.

Step 4

To make the satay, season the pork with salt, half of the rica-rica paste and the lime juice. Mix well and set aside to marinate for 10 minutes.

Step 5

Preheat a charcoal barbecue or a grill pan over high heat. Thread 4 pieces of pork onto each skewer. Grill the pork for 5-6 minutes, brushing it with marinade and turning often, until cooked through. Transfer the skewers to a plate.

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Step 6

Serve as is or with the steamed rice, spiced vegetable stew and the remaining rica-rica.

Makes: 12-14 skewers

SOUR FISH SOUP

Ikan Kuah Asam

Origin: Sulawesi
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 25-30 minutes

4 makrut lime leaves, torn
2 large tomatoes, finely chopped
2 scallions, finely sliced
1-2 red bird’s eye chilies, thinly sliced
1 stalk lemongrass, crushed and tied into a knot
1 banana shallot, thinly sliced
Handful of basil, plus extra to garnish
Salt, to taste
Juice of 1-2 limes
4 (125-g/4 1/4-oz) skinless firm white fish fillets, cut into bite-size pieces

Step 1

Bring 800 mL (3 1/2 cups) of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add all the ingredients, except the lime juice and fish, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 20-25 minutes. Season with salt and add lime juice to taste.

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Step 2

Add the fish and cook for 3-4 minutes. Divide the fish into 4 soup bowls and ladle 2-3 spoons of broth on top. Garnish with basil and serve hot.

Serves: 4

VARIATIONS

Sour Fish Soup with Turmeric (Ikan Parende)

Add 10 g (1/4 oz) fresh thinly sliced turmeric and 15 g (1/2 oz) thinly sliced ginger with the rest of the soup ingredients.

Prawn and Sweetcorn Soup (Binte Biluhuta)

Replace the fish with an equal weight of medium shelled prawns, add the kernels from 2 cobs of sweetcorn and cook for 2-3 minutes.

Recipes and images excerpted from The Indonesian Table ©2023 by Petty Pandean-Elliott. Photography ©2023 by Yuki Sugiura. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.

Article content

Our cookbook of the week is The Indonesian Table by Petty Pandean-Elliott. Read an interview with the author.

Article content

Jump to the recipes: crudité, tempeh and tofu with shrimp paste sambal; pork satay with chili, ginger and lime; and sour fish soup.

The first recipe Indonesian-born, U.K.-based chef and food writer Petty Pandean-Elliott shared with us isn’t one she grew up eating in Manado, North Sulawesi. But she appreciates its freshness all the same. “I just liked the idea (of having) raw food. People think ‘Oh, in Indonesia, you fry everything or make satay or fried rice.’ But in some communities, specifically people in West Java, they just love raw food and dip it in sambal.”

Pandean-Elliott’s crudité, tempeh and tofu with shrimp paste sambal (lalapan, tempe, tahu dan sambal) was inspired by a classic Sundanese dish, made in Indigenous communities in agriculturally rich West Java. For the crudités, she chose vegetables that are readily available at her local farmers’ market, and you should feel free to do the same. Serve it with rice, and chicken or fish, she recommends, “for a healthy and balanced meal.”

Article content

Satay may be Indonesia’s best-known dish, but similar to lalapan, skewered meats were not part of Pandean-Elliott’s mealtimes in Manado. She first tasted chicken satay with peanut sauce as a teenager, when she and her family relocated to Jakarta. The Indonesian capital is on the island of Java, “home to satay.”

In Java, vendors commonly offer beef, chicken, goat, pork, seafood and tempeh satays. Since her hometown of Manado lacked their own take on the skewers, she came up with a version based on a popular dry-braised dish. The result is the following recipe for pork satay with chili, ginger and lime.

The pork is seasoned with rica-rica, which is a Manadonese sambal, fiery with chilies and red ginger. “Traditionally, it’s so spicy. It’s really very spicy. People can add more (heat), but my recipe is elegant-spicy, maybe medium rather than super-hot.”

Article content

Article content

Pandean-Elliott calls for only two to three chilies here, but if you like it hot, add as many as 20. She also recommends seasoning prawns, chicken or fish with rica-rica for more variations on her Manadonese-flavoured satay.

The third recipe, sour fish soup, is close to Pandean-Elliott’s heart. “It was really my grandmother’s favourite.” Her grandmother, Oma, opted for mackerel and would add a few tablespoons of steamed rice. Pandean-Elliott calls for any firm white fish, such as halibut, and offers a prawn variation.

“It’s so simple to make, really, honestly. It’s just very minimalist ingredients,” she says. After simmering the aromatics in a pot of water, you’re left with a clear, fragrant broth. “It’s very pure.”

Article content

CRUDITÉ, TEMPEH AND TOFU WITH SHRIMP PASTE SAMBAL

Lalapan, Tempe, Tahu dan Sambal Terasi

Origin: Java
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes

For the crudité:
2 carrots, halved lengthwise
1 small cucumber, cut into 10-cm (4-inch) sticks
1 baby gem lettuce, halved lengthwise
1 red chicory (endive), leaves separated, rinsed and dried
100 g (2/3 cup) vine-ripened cherry tomatoes
50 g (1/2 cup) radishes, halved
Small bunch of basil (optional)
1 quantity Tomato and Shrimp Paste Sambal (recipe follows), to serve

For the tempeh and tofu:
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 banana shallot, finely grated
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp salt
200 g (7 oz) tempeh, cut into chunky pieces
200 g (7 oz) firm tofu, cut into triangles
400 mL (1 2/3 cups) sunflower oil

Article content

Step 1

For the crudité, arrange the vegetables and bunch of basil, if using, on a platter and refrigerate until needed.

Step 2

For the tempeh and tofu marinade, combine the garlic, shallot, coriander and salt in a small bowl. Add 200 mL (generous 3/4 cup) of water and mix well. Add the tempeh and tofu and set aside for 5 minutes to marinate.

Step 3

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Carefully add the marinated tofu and tempeh and deep-fry for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tofu and tempeh to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.

Step 4

Remove the platter of vegetables from the refrigerator. Place the tempeh and tofu onto the platter and serve with a small bowl of sambal. Enjoy!

Article content

Serves: 4-6

TOMATO AND SHRIMP PASTE SAMBAL

Sambal Terasi Tomat

4 tbsp coconut oil or sunflower oil
2 banana shallots, coarsely chopped
2 large cloves garlic, roughly sliced
4-5 red bird’s eye chilies, coarsely chopped
2 large red chilies, finely chopped
1-2 tsp shrimp paste
2 tomatoes, chopped into 1-cm (1/2-inch) cubes (about 1 cup)
1/4-1/2 tsp salt
1-2 tbsp lime juice

Step 1

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté for 4-5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chilies and sauté for another 2-3 minutes. Add the shrimp paste and cook for another 2-3 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 10 minutes until reduced by a quarter. Put the mixture into a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer the sambal into a bowl. Season with salt and lime juice.

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Step 2

This sambal can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, topped with oil, for 2-3 days.

Makes: 500 g (2 cups)

PORK SATAY WITH CHILI, GINGER AND LIME

Sate Babi Rica-Rica

Origin: Sulawesi
Preparation time: 10 minutes, plus 10 minutes marinating time
Cooking time: 15-20 minutes

For the rica-rica:
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 banana shallots, coarsely chopped
2-3 red bird’s eye chilies
2 large red chilies
20 g (3/4 oz) ginger, thinly sliced
2 tbsp coconut oil or sunflower oil
Juice of 1 lime
Salt, to taste

For the satay:
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) pork tenderloin, cut into 2-cm (3/4-inch) cubes
1/2 tsp salt
Juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp coconut oil

To serve:
Steamed rice
Spiced Vegetable Stew (recipe is in the book)

Article content

Step 1

Soak 14 long bamboo skewers in water for 1 hour.

Step 2

To make the rica-rica, combine all the ingredients, except the oil, lime and salt, in a blender and blend to a fine paste. Set aside.

Step 3

Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Add the paste and sauté for 6-7 minutes. Season with lime juice and salt and sauté for another 2 minutes. Set aside.

Step 4

To make the satay, season the pork with salt, half of the rica-rica paste and the lime juice. Mix well and set aside to marinate for 10 minutes.

Step 5

Preheat a charcoal barbecue or a grill pan over high heat. Thread 4 pieces of pork onto each skewer. Grill the pork for 5-6 minutes, brushing it with marinade and turning often, until cooked through. Transfer the skewers to a plate.

Article content

Step 6

Serve as is or with the steamed rice, spiced vegetable stew and the remaining rica-rica.

Makes: 12-14 skewers

SOUR FISH SOUP

Ikan Kuah Asam

Origin: Sulawesi
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 25-30 minutes

4 makrut lime leaves, torn
2 large tomatoes, finely chopped
2 scallions, finely sliced
1-2 red bird’s eye chilies, thinly sliced
1 stalk lemongrass, crushed and tied into a knot
1 banana shallot, thinly sliced
Handful of basil, plus extra to garnish
Salt, to taste
Juice of 1-2 limes
4 (125-g/4 1/4-oz) skinless firm white fish fillets, cut into bite-size pieces

Step 1

Bring 800 mL (3 1/2 cups) of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add all the ingredients, except the lime juice and fish, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 20-25 minutes. Season with salt and add lime juice to taste.

Article content

Step 2

Add the fish and cook for 3-4 minutes. Divide the fish into 4 soup bowls and ladle 2-3 spoons of broth on top. Garnish with basil and serve hot.

Serves: 4

VARIATIONS

Sour Fish Soup with Turmeric (Ikan Parende)

Add 10 g (1/4 oz) fresh thinly sliced turmeric and 15 g (1/2 oz) thinly sliced ginger with the rest of the soup ingredients.

Prawn and Sweetcorn Soup (Binte Biluhuta)

Replace the fish with an equal weight of medium shelled prawns, add the kernels from 2 cobs of sweetcorn and cook for 2-3 minutes.

Recipes and images excerpted from The Indonesian Table ©2023 by Petty Pandean-Elliott. Photography ©2023 by Yuki Sugiura. Reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.